Heavy on New York (he explains why in his opinion) with two solo Texas establishments (one you know, one maybe not)....
Churrascos, Houston
Churrascos
On the side: Yuca fries
Michael Cordúa brought churrascos to Houston twenty years ago, and he still sets the bar for these juicy, charred slabs of center-cut tenderloin laced with spicy chimichurri and served with salty-sweet, fresh-from-the-fryer plantain chips. 2055 Westheimer Road; 713-527-8300;
(snip)
Paris Coffee Shop, Fort Worth, Texas
Chicken-Fried Steak
On the side: Mashed potatoes and cream gravy
There's no resisting the conceit of a dish like chicken-fried steak, which begins with a lesser cut of meat that's pounded into oblivion. Once tenderized, it's battered and deep-fried, and comes out a minor wonder of everyman cuisine. The Paris, a booth-and-counter diner, is the kind of place to eat it. Preferably followed by a slice of warm custard pie. 700 West Magnolia Avenue; 817-335-2041
Let the wailing, gnashing of teeth, and questions of sanity begin.
2 comments:
I've had the center-cut tenderloin a few times at Churrasco's.
I've also had better steaks in town.
At least he got Peter Lugar and Smith & Wollensky in there. Despite the fact that the latter is widely considered to be currently living off the fumes of the "end all arguments" quote offered up years ago.
Hey, its Esquire magazine, right?
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